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Tarka Trail

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Inspired by Henry Williamson's much loved novel 'Tarka the Otter' which was based on real places, this 180 miles/290km recreational route, in a figure of eight, follows Tarka's journeys through the northern part of the county.

The Trail takes you through an ever changing variety of some wonderful Devon scenery described in the book, including tranquil countryside, wooded river valleys, rugged moorland and dramatic coast.

Comprehensively waymarked, walking along the Trail varies from easy to challenging. Short sections of the Trail and circular walks from it are ideal for day and half day excursions.

THE TARKA TRAIL, over 180 miles in length takes a looping route through North and Mid Devon, from the rugged Atlantic Coast, the Estuaries of the Two Rivers of Tarka the Otter fame, the Rivers Taw and Torridge through rural Devon Countryside onto the Northern Slopes of Dartmoor, and the source of the River Taw. The Trail between Barnstaple, down the Taw, upriver to Bideford, following the Torridge to Torrington takes the route of a disused railway line and is particularly suited for both cyclists and walkers.

The Tarka Trail can be accessed from the Puffing Billy which is the former Southern Railways station at Great Torrington.

To arrange cycle hire and collection at the Puffing Billy ready for your day on the Trail, contact Torridge Cycle Hire, Station Yard, Torrington, tel: 01805 622633

The Tarka Trail can be accessed from the "Puffing Billy" which is the former Southern Railways station at Great Torrington. From here, you can cycle north to Bideford, or south along the line of the old railway track, through the quiet countryside to Petrockstowe and Meeth. During the Summer months bicycles, may be hired and refreshments taken at the "Puffing Billy"

Torrington Railway Station

The Tarka Trail is, in its entirety, 180 miles long and traces the travels and adventures of Tarka the Otter, as depicted in the book by Henry Williamson.

The Tarka Trail stretches over 180 miles taking a looping route through North and Mid Devon, from the rugged Atlantic Coast to the northern slopes of Dartmoor. Mostly off-road, the Tarka Trail can be broken up into easily managed sections for those who don't want a strenuous ride.

The Traka Trail

The Traka Trail

The Tarka Cycle Trail along the riverbank between Braunton and Barnstaple forms part of the Tarka Trail and is a 25 mile flat stretch of 'reclaimed' railway track bed ideal for cycling, which connects Braunton, Barnstaple, Instow, Bideford, Great Torrington and Meeth and on to Petrockstowe via the Torridge and Taw valleys.

The trail is named after Henry Williamson's 'Tarka the Otter' which was based on many locations along the Trail.

The scenery and wildlife are spectacular. The Trail runs beside the Taw estuary for some distance. Close by is the RSPB Reserve at Isley Marsh where you can see flocks of estuary birds - Wild Duck, Widgeon, Teal, Mallard, Dunlin, Curlew, Redshank, Oystercatcher, Turnstone, Little Plover, Heron, Godwit and Ringed Plovers. Spoonbills are reputed to have been seen and you may catch sight of the occasional Egret.

Views across the estuary and tidal creeks towards Instow and Appledore help to make this a superbly scenic ride.

Visitors to this section of the Tarka Trail should try to take time out to visit Braunton Burrows, another haven for wildlife. This is an area which is made up of sand dunes and marram grass, rich in rare species of flowers, birds and insects.

The trail also takes you near to Crow Point where you can enjoy watching swans, ducks and moorhen in the drainage channels. Cyclists can now enjoy a new traffic-free approach to Barnstaple along the quayside using the newly opened Yeo Swing Bridge.

This section of the Tarka Trail forms part of the spectacular Devon Coast to Coast cycle route. From Ilfracombe on Devon's north coast to Plymouth in the south. Largely tracing the course of former railway lines, the 90 mile route passes through tunnels and across the breathtaking viaducts and bridges bequeathed by Victorian railway engineers.

For those starting at Braunton follow the signs from the town centre. At Barnstaple the route starts at the quayside near the North Devon District Council offices.

If you are staying on or near Exmoor, a day cycling on the Tarka Trail is very rewarding and great fun for all the family.

For further information on the Tarka Trail and the surrounding area go to www.tarka-country.co.uk

 

Henry Williamson's classic novel 'Tarka the Otter', first published in 1927, superbly captures the wonderful countryside and wildlife of North Devon and Exmoor. Yet few who read it realise that it is based on real locations that still exist, and remain for the most part, largely unchanged today!

Tarka's story has been the inspiration for the creation of The Tarka Trail, a 180-mile recreational route that traces a journey through Tarka Country. Tarka Country offers 500 square miles of unforgettable rolling farmland, wild moorland and rugged coastline and stretches from the North Devon coast and Exmoor, down to the northern slopes of Dartmoor. The Trail itself follows cycleways, footpaths, quiet country lanes and a scenic railway, touching those places that Henry Williamson knew and walked in another time, and described so vividly. North Devon's capital town of Barnstaple lies at the centre of the Trail's figure of eight circuit. However, the Trail can be accessed from many other wonderful towns and villages. Look out for the Artistic Waymarkers and Sculptures within the Torridge and Upper Torridge areas. There are bike hire outlets at several locations along the route, where a variety of cycles can be hired including exotics such as trailer, recumbent and wheelchair bikes. Short sections can be walked or cycled as part of a day out, while longer sections make for a wonderful walking or cycling weekend. For the more serious walker, who relishes the challenge of completing the whole Trail, there is the happy prospect of a full two-week holiday!

East from Barnstaple, the Trail takes you along the foothills of Codden Hill and past the Venn Quarries. You will discover the village of Landkey too, famous for its Mazzard orchards. Near the strangely named Charles Bottom, you can follow the wooded River Bray Valley onto Exmoor, where it merges with Two Moors Way; another long distance path which runs from Ivybridge on the southern edge of Dartmoor to Lynmouth. There can be no doubt that Henry Williamson loved Exmoor. One of the smaller National Parks, Exmoor is gentler than its southern sister Dartmoor, but no less unpredictable. A combination of moorland and coast results in some truly spectacular scenery. Climb Whitefield Down, which is on the way to Moles Chamber and the lonely man-made 'tarn' of Pinkworthy Pond, and enjoy fine views. Cut across the wilds of The Chains and discover ancient hut circles and tumuli, and overlook the wooded gorge of the East Lyn River, which takes you to Lynmouth. The twin resorts of Lynton & Lynmouth are known as "The Little Switzerland of England" and sit overlooked by Countisbury Hill, created from one of the highest cliffs in England. The Victorian water powered Cliff Railway connects Lynton & Lynmouth and is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular rides of its kind, offering an unusual trip with fantastic views.

Late summer and early autumn is the ideal time to visit this part of Tarka Country, when the heather moorland is in full bloom. Staying within Exmoor National Park, as far as Combe Martin, the Trail joins the South West Coast Path and traces Tarka's journey westwards along one of the most dramatic sections of coastline in the country. The sights are many, from the mysterious looking weathered rock formations in the Valley of Rocks; wooded bays and rocky promontories; the rocky combe and lime kiln at Heddon's Mouth; the splash of purple heather and yellow gorse on Holdstone Down; the heights of Great Hangman to pass Little Hangman down to the sheltered Combe Martin Bay.

Further along the coast the scenery becomes less rugged, passing the beautiful harbour at Watermouth Cove, over the cliff tops and down into Ilfracombe, which were described by RD Blackmore as "some of the finest walks in England". Ilfracombe is a Victorian seaside resort set in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and is where Henry Williamson lived in his latter years. The Trail then follows the Torrs Walks on to Fuchsia Valley at Lee, soon rounding Rockham Bay before reaching Mortehoe. The Cart Linhay Centre at Mortehoe offers an interesting visit, as do the villages of Croyde and Georgeham, where Tarka the Otter was written. Henry Williamson is buried in a simple grave in Georgeham Churchyard.

Bideford has two bridges, ancient and modern, which span the tidal River Torridge. Tarka passed under Bideford's medieval long bridge several times on his travels. The town has a wonderful quayside and is home to an historic covered pannier market. From the quay you can also board the MS Oldenburg and take an exhilarating sea trip to the enchanting island of Lundy. Lundy is a truly remote and tranquil place with fascinating wildlife. Without roads or cars on Lundy, you can totally leave the modern world behind. On the opposite side of the river in Bideford sits the Kathleen & May, a wonderful and historic three masted schooner, which has recently been restored.

You will also see some of the finest golden beaches in the country on this section of the Tarka Trail, such as Woolacombe, Croyde and Saunton, with sweeping yellow sands that dazzle and delight.

NORTH DEVON'S BIOSPHERE RESERVE

The rarity and diversity and profusion of the flora and fauna in and around the River Torridge estuary and near the coast, has led to this special place being designated as International Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO - the first of its type in the country! Discover the hummocks of the strange dunescape of Braunton Burrows. The burrows cover over 6km along the shore and some 2km inland, making them one of the largest sand dune systems in the UK. You will pass the Great Field of Braunton Marsh here
too, where you can hear the haunting cries of sandpipers and curlews on the saltings of the Taw and Torridge Estuary, returning you to Barnstaple.

Nestling in the mouth of the River Taw and at the crossroads of the Tarka Trail is Barnstaple, the oldest borough in the country. Barnstaple has the added advantage in that visitors can arrive by train on the Tarka Line, a railway that runs for 39 miles between Barnstaple and Exeter. The Tarka Line is probably one of the prettiest branch lines in the country.

Barnstaple's bustling town centre, with its Victorian Pannier Market and other fine examples of medieval and Georgian architecture, is just a short walk from the station over a 13tn century long bridge. During the summer months this multi 'Britain in Bloom' winner is decked with thousands of wonderful flowers. Visit the Museum of North Devon & Barnstaple too, home to the Tarka Centre, which houses the work of Henry Williamson. A superb reconstruction of waterside life in a Devon river enables visitors to see under water in to the secret world of the otter and its habitat. South West from Barnstaple the Tarka Trail skirts the expanse of the Taw and Torridge Estuary, where during the winter months, migrant birds can be seen feeding on the sandbanks at low tide. At Instow, there is the opportunity to take your bike on a ferry to explore the ancient free port of Appledore on the opposite bank. From Appledore, further along the coast, you can also visit the Victorian resort of Westward Ho! with its famous pebble ridge and two miles of golden sands. Heavy Atlantic waves created the unique pebble ridge, and its dunes and salt marshes are important wildlife habitats. On the Trail there are many reminders of the cycle/ walkway's railway, with the country's only Grade II listed signal box at Instow, and another signal box can be found at the restored 1950's railway carriage in Bideford, which serves as an interpretation centre and provides refreshments.

Bideford has two bridges, ancient and modern, which span the tidal river. Tarka passed under Bideford's medieval long bridge several times on his travels. The town has a wonderful quayside and is home to an historic covered pannier market. From the quay you can also board the MS Oldenburg and take an exhilarating sea trip to the enchanting island of Lundy. Lundy is a truly remote and tranquil place with fascinating wildlife. Without roads or cars on Lundy, you can totally leave the modern world behind. On the opposite side of the river in Bideford sits the Kathleen & May, a wonderful and historic three masted schooner, which has recently been restored.

THE UPPER TORRIDGE
The River Torridge's journey ends approximately 50 miles from its source, having looped deep into Tarka Country and collected waters from the Rivers Lew and Okement along the way. The upper Torridge flows through truly undiscovered countryside.
The miles of surrounding open countryside offers the opportunity to get away from it all, and lose yourself among small hamlets and sleepy villages like Shebbear, Bradworthy and Woolfardisworthy (pronounced Woolsery). The Tamar Lakes just to the North of Holsworthy are ideal for bird watching, fishing and lakeside walks. A cycle route from Holsworthy, takes you through quiet farmland to Black Torrington. From Black Torrington you can continue on to meet the Mid Torridge Cycle Route, in the small attractive village of Sheepwash to reach Hatherleigh.

Holsworthy and Hatherleigh are in an area known as 'Ruby County', where a new initiative is underway to provide further walking, cycling and horse riding trails. The coastline just a few miles north of the source of the River Torridge forms part of the Hartland Heritage Coast. You can follow the coastal footpath from Westward Ho! past oak woodlands to explore Clovelly, one of the worlds most unique villages and 14th century harbour. Further on, the steep wooded coastline changes, becoming more rugged in character, with amazing tilted rock formations at the spectacular Hartland Point and beyond.

THE TORRIDGE VALLEY
The Torridge Valley, with its intimate wooded banks, was Tarka the Otter's home territory. His fictional birthplace was only a few miles up stream from Bideford, close to Canal Bridge, amid the roots of an oak tree. You will discover picturesque villages such as Weare Giffard and Great Torrington. The Cavalier Town of Great Torrington is perched high above the Tarka Trail and is famous as the site of one of the last great battles of the English Civil War. It is also home to the famous Dartington Crystal, the fabulous RHS Garden Rosemoor and 1646, a unique attraction where costumed characters take you back in time to the 17th century. The climb up to the town offers magnificent views across the Torridge Valley, and from the commons, there are over 20 miles of additional circular walks.

THE DARTMOOR FRINGE
The cycle/walkway ends at Meeth. However, keen cyclists may wish to pick up the Mid Torridge Cycle Route at Petrockstowe, and cycle on through the villages of Sheepwash and Hatherleigh and on to Okehampton. This route crosses the Torridge Valley
near Devon Wildlife Trust's Halsdon Nature Reserve, where there are way-marked nature trails. Walkers can take a different route along footpaths and lanes to visit the attractive villages of Dolton and Iddesleigh, with pretty thatched cottages and
traditional Inns. Before crossing the River Okement you will discover the market town of Hatherleigh, with ancient streets that are a delight to explore. There is a town trail and circular walks out into the surrounding countryside, which include short sections of the Trail's route. Further south the Trail crosses Hatherleigh Moor, with wonderful sweeping views of Dartmoor and the surrounding area.

Deep Devon lanes and permissive paths will also take you to the delightful villages of Jacobstowe and Exbourne. The River Okement flows from the moor to join the River Torridge, providing on its route, a haven for wildlife. There are many opportunities to explore this special are; with cycle routes, circular walks, village trails, and on Dartmoor, the freedom to walk where you will. Okehampton lies at the foot of the moor and has becomi centre for walkers. With a network of routes to suit all levels of ability, including 'The Two Museums Walk', a linear day walk, which takes in a section of the Trail and links Okehampton and Sticklepath. The Trail rou itself climbs through a wooded cleave to Belston on the edge of Dartmoor' wild north moors. Walker can explore Dartmoor further or descend to Belstone Cleave.

THE TAW VALLEY

The same quick flowing River Taw that rushes over rocks and tree roots in Belstone Cleave, slowly broadens into a mature river, as it gathers the flows of small streams and other rivers, in its progress toward the coast. Within sight of its Dartmoor origin, the river passes the former wool town of North Tawton. The town has its own trail, which guides you to the mediaeval Broadhall and 18tn century 'Clink'. For the walker, the Trail winds its way through deeply tranquil Devon farmland the hamlet of Bondleigh and on to Eggesford. The conifer plantations Eggesford, deep in the Taw Valley, bring a dark taste of the Black Forest to the countryside.

Pleasant woodland trails, an exhilarating cycle route for mountain bikes, and a small arboretum are all here to enjoy. Eggesford Forest covers the valley around Eggesford Station with a cloak of deep green. At the station, the Trail continues on the Tarka Line to Barnstaple. Lying just a short walk from the small rural stations along its route, there are unspoilt and undiscovered villages to be explored such as Chawleigh, Chulmleigh, Kings Nympton, Burrington, Chittlehampton and Chittlehamholt. The walk up to these villages, perched high on the valley sides, is rewarded with magnificent views of the valley below. Although a little difficult to reach, the village of Winkleigh lies just four miles from Eggesford and is well worth discovering too. Like many other villages in the area, Winkleigh, with its picturesque square, is steeped in history.

 

Come and cycle the Tarka Trail, with all your family and friends. Following the old railway line safe from the dangers of traffic, through tranquil Tarka Country.

The route North follows the Torridge Estuary, soon coming to the village of Instow. Stop here for lunch or laze on the beach. Then, if you wish, carry on towards Barnstaple, another six miles, past fields, marsh and mudflats, a haven for bird watchers.
The trail South is totally different as, at first, it follows the valley of the River Torridge, crossing side to side through woods and a tunnel, until reaching Torrington Station, far below Great Torrington Town.

Onwards from here the trail climbs gently but steadily, through sheltering woods, over 4 miles until at last you reach East Yarde. The cycling enthusiast with lots of energy remaining can continue for another 6 miles on top of the world, with great views all round.


The Tarka Trail Map in PDF format (210kb)

 

 

Contributed by:Liam Johns

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